Outdoor Power Equipment, Small Engine, Lawn Mower Repairs, Troubleshooting and Safety
Disassembly, Cleaning and Repair of Kohler Adjustable Carb used on K Series and Magnum Engines
Kohler carb part numbers 45 053 08, 45 053 09, 45 053 12, 45 053 20, 45 053 26, 45 053 68, 45 053 70, 45 053 76, 45 053 77, 45 053 86, 45 053 87, 45 053 88, 45 053 89, 45 053 91, 45 053 92, 47 053 03, 47 053 07, 47 053 08, 47 053 09, 47 053 12, 47 053 13, 47 053 14, 47 053 15, 47 053 16, 47 053 17, 47 053 20, 47 053 24, 47 053 29, 47 053 30, 47 053 35, 47 053 40, 47 053 41, 47 053 62, 47 053 63, 47 053 78, 47 053 80, 48 053 06, 52 053 09, 52 053 18, 52 053 28, 52 053 60, 77 053 06, 77 053 07.
used on Kohler Engines K241, K301, K321, K341, M10, M12, M14, M16, M16GT
| Kohler Adjustable Carb Initial Setting (turns out from lightly seated) | |||
|---|---|---|---|
| Engine Series | Low Idle (turns) | High Idle (turns) | |
| K91 | 1 1/2 | 2 | |
| K141 | 1 1/2 | 3 | |
| K161 | 1 1/2 | 3 | |
| K181 | 1 1/4 | 2 | |
| K241 | 2 1/2 | 2 | |
| K301 | 2 1/2 | 2 | |
| K321 | 2 1/2 | 3 1/4 | |
| K341 | 2 1/2 | 3 1/2 | |
| KT17 | 1 | 2 1/2 | |
| KT19 | 1 | 2 1/2 | |
| K582 | 1 1/4 | 3 | |
| M8 | 1 1/4 | 2 | |
| M10 | 2 1/2 | 2 | |
| M12 | 2 1/2 | 2 | |
| M14 | 2 1/2 | 3 1/4 | |
| M16 | 2 1/2 | 3 1/2 | |
| M18 | 1 | 2 1/2 | |
| M20 | 1 | 2 1/2 | |
| MV16/18 | N/A | N/A | |
| MV20 | N/A | N/A | |
- The final low idle mixture should be set with the engine running at 1200 rpm (1500 max). The engine maximum allowable speed is 3600 rpm.
- Remove the main mixture needle before removing the seat or the needle may be damaged.
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- #1. Kohler Carb 4705315
This Kohler made 4705315 1" carburetor is simple in construction and easy to service. In fact, unless the carb is in very bad shape you won't need to remove it from the engine to do most cleaning or repair. Both mixture needles are easy to access and both the inlet seat and main needle seat unscrew.
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- #2. Main screw (top), idle screw (side)
The main fuel mixture adjusting screw (main needle, high idle screw, etc.) is the one on top and the low idle fuel mixture screw (low speed screw, idle adjustment needle, etc.) is the one on the side (#2). To make the preliminary setting for the main needle, screw it in until it just seats, then back it out 3-1/4 turns. For the low idle needle, the initial setting is 2-1/2 turns out from lightly seated. These settings should allow the engine to start and run.
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- #3. Welch plug and idle screw
#3 shows the idle screw (blue) and the idle mixing well welch plug (red). Directly opposite these items, you can see the idle air bleed (blue) and fuel orifices (yellow) inside the carb throat (#12) near the throttle closed position.
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- #4. Part number stamped in carb body
The Kohler part number of this carb is stamped into the mounting flange (#4).
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- #5. Fuel bowl and bowl nut
The float bowl (fuel bowl) is removed by unscrewing the bowl nut (#5). When this nut is loosened, any remaining fuel will leak out. When the bowl is removed, it may be possible for the float to drop low enough for the inlet needle to fall out (if the 'float drop' is not properly set - see below).
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- #6. Float and baffle gasket
Upon removal of the float bowl the float and baffle gasket are visible (#6). Behind the baffle gasket is a bowl gasket, which sits in a groove on the carb body. If the float bowl is difficult to remove, it is stuck to the gaskets. The float is attached to the carb body by a hinge rod (hinge pin) which simply slides out.
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- #7. Float parallel to body
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With the baffle gasket and bowl gasket removed and the carb inverted, the float should rest parallel to the carb body (#7) or more technically, there should be 11/64" +/- 1/32" between the free end of the float and the carb body. To adjust the float, bend the tang (tab) upon which the float sits with a needle-nose pliers or small screwdriver.
Check the clearance between the float and the hinge towers (#7, blue arrow). If there is less than 0.010" clearance, file down the tower.
With the baffle gasket and bowl gasket removed and the carb upright, the float should hang no more than 1-1/32" below the carb body. To adjust the float, bend the tang (tab) behind the hinge with a needle-nose pliers or small screwdriver.
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- #8. Float needle, rubber tipped
This inlet needle (float needle) (#8) is rubber tipped. Check for corrosion and wear.
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- #9. Fuel inlet valve seat
The fuel inlet needle seat unscrews from the body (#9). Check for corrosion, pitting or debris.
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- #10. Main fuel metering jet
The main needle seat can be unscrewed from the center pedestal of the body, but first be sure that the main needle is not screwed in far enough to be damaged (#10, red arrow).
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- #11. Idle (short) and main (long) needles
#11 shows a view of the low idle (short) and main (long) needles. The main needle has a number of holes that must be clear.
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- #12. Idle fuel orifices
#12 shows the low idle fuel (yellow) and air bleed (blue) orifices near the throttle closed position.
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- #13. Idle speed screw and throttle lever
The low idle speed adjustment screw (#13) prevents the throttle from closing completely.
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- #14. Throttle shutter
A view of the throttle plate (shutter, butterfly) (#14).
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- #15. Throttle link snaps on
The throttle linkage is attached to a ball on the throttle lever with a spring clip which simply snaps on (#15).
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- #16. Choke plate
A view of the choke plate (#16). The main needle is visible behind the choke.